Good question that. You will find that most vintners of this area will let you taste a few wines without any obligations to buy. Still, it is considered proper to take a bottle or two which will cost you some 10-20 marks (5-10USD). However, this is impractical for long distance travellers and large parties and therefore the following is a much better procedure, which I and my friends follow: You approach the vintner and explain that you would like a tasting of his wines and offer to pay up a certain amount for the hospitability. An amount of 10-20 marks (5-10 USD) per person will be well received and you leave to the vintner to choose the wines. It is my experience that they will be very generous and given that you show real interest you'll probably get to try some of his/her best wines. The quantity served usually is 5cl per person and wine and spittoons usually are available (me, I drink - no driving

Should you get to the Middle Moselle, the Vinothek in Bernkastel at the Cusanus Stift immediately by the bridge is a good idea for a visit. You pay 18 marks, less than 9 USD, receive a glass and enter the vaulted cellars to serve yourself from a selection of about 70-80 different wines of the Moselle valley, from Kabinett to Auslese levels, dry to sweet, and also a number of sparkling Sekts from the reception desk. If you are thinking of seeing the great and famous wineries - get appointments - without one they may or may not receive you... (but most are quite forthcoming, especially if you speak the language).